Italy
07/11/2006 - To 08/01/2006
We left Orlando bound for Italy with a stopover in Germany. After flights from New Zealand, crossing the Atlantic seems down right zippy. The rough plan consisted of starting in Rome, working our way toward Florence and Venice and then over to the coastline to Cinque Terre.
We booked a few nights of accommodation in the touristy areas (Rome and Florence) and then left the rest up to spontaneity.
From Frankfurt to Rome, we crossed the Alps.
Man it looks cold down there.
Rome
Exhausted, we grabbed a taxi to the hotel. The driver weaved and careened insanely down the crowded highway at least 140kph (115mph) while talking to base about where he was going. When we finally arrived after several wrong-turns, he pulled the old "turn-away with the $100 Euro bill you gave me, then turn back (looking confused) with a smaller $50 Euro bill in hand" trick. Then, he continually shouted something in Italian with hopes of Duncan giving him more money. Duncan did not fall for it and debated with the guy - taxi driver in Italian and Duncan in English. After about 10 minutes, he started over with the original $100 Euro note and then made the correct change. Duncan is fairly sure we didn't get ripped off, but man did we need some sleep.
A three hour nap left us refreshed and ready to start to explore Rome. We wandered down the streets of Rome looking for our first real Italian dining experience. We ended up at Est, Est, Est for the first of many tasty pizza dinners.
We made it. Quiet, narrow, cobbled streets with a few "Vespa girls". Very civilized.
Until rush hour. Then everyone comes out and floods the narrow streets.
Although we've seen a few Smart cars in New Zealand, they are incredibly popular here.
Cute. Practical. Easy to park. Good mileage. Weather-protected (better than a scooter). Why doesn't the whole world drive these? All Daimler-Chrysler needs to do is come out with the plug-in electric-hybrid version of this baby and off we go toward energy independence. Of course, getting run-over by a Hummer or Escapade might be an issue.
Two cars in one American-size parking space. Every time we saw a Smart car, the finder would call out "Smarty"! (The fun never stops with Robin and Duncan). We're not sure who won, but we stopped playing after about the 200,000th Smart car.
The scooter / motorcycle was the other highly popular and practical method of transport.
Our first introduction to what looks like some tasty pastry treats. Yum! Every morning in Rome, we enjoyed an espresso or cappucino with a brioche at our neighborhood espresso bar. You stand at the bar, drink your coffee and eat your pastry. The speed with which some Italians down their espresso shots is impressive.
Love the look of the fresh fruit and veg! It looks like it was just picked out of the garden, then placed in a highly decorative cart street-side.
First stop, the Trevi fountain. Although we're not big on the trodden-tourist attractions, "when in Rome...".
Crowds? What do you expect? It's the peak of the tourist season in Italy. Duh.
Off to the Pantheon.
The dome inside the Pantheon. The just don't make domes like this anymore. Hope you don't dome overdose in this log. We almost did.
A pretty flower stall at the piazza Navoni market.
A bit of exploration around the excavated Roman forum -- the center of ancient Rome. Started in the 7th century BC and developed over the next 1000 years before being dismantled, covered, and re-used as pasture land in the middle ages.
Impressive architecture. Some parts are over 2500 years old.
More impressive bits. The excavation continues. Much of the best marble had been removed from the site to build other buildings and monuments around Rome.
And the Colosseum. Each entry gate was numbered with a Roman numeral indicating the section. This must have enabled TiketMeister to prevent dual seat bookings during the Gladiator vs. Lions games.
Robin over the Roman forum.
Duncan by the Colosseum. He reminds me of the garden gnome in Amelie.
Off to Vatican City and the Vatican museum.
An ornate hallway and ceiling in the Vatican museum. Yowsa, the number of tourists at the Vatican was overwhelming at times.
Don't ask me. Yes, I should know. A cultured man would. Maybe Venus? Sculptor's name begins with a "B"? I see my 11th grade Art and Architecture teacher shaking his head sadly right now.
The famous spiral ramp as seen on The da Vinci Code.
Robin on the Vatican mall.
Saint Peters Basilica.
Saint Peters Basilica interior.
A rare photo of us together -- other than those excellent arms-length ones.
Another fine dome.
Serenaded loudly by one of Duncan's favorite instruments, the accordion. Did you know "La Bamba" can be played on an accordion?
The Spanish Steps.
Okay. We enjoyed Rome much more than expected, but several times felt a bit disconnected from the full cultural experience. With a better grasp of the language, an ounce of knowledge on Catholicism and a few guided tours, we would get more out of Rome. It looks like a thoroughly livable city if you never had to drive anywhere. We will come back someday.
Siena
Off to Siena.
Siena does not allow motor vehicles in the city center. Taxis are allowed to drop off near the main square, but you don't have to worry about getting run over by a scooter, car, or truck. Everything is much quieter in Siena.
One of the nicest shops we've found. People live quite well here.
Many of the historic buildings and monuments were in some stage of restoration -- usually with unsightly scaffolding completely obscuring the facade. Here a clever application of a "silkscreen" allows us to see what it will look like when it's done.
A cool sculpture inset into a building.
Siena central from a nearby rooftop.
One of the famous cafes on the main square.
The Tuscan countryside. We caught it on a hazy day.
One of the tours we did took us out into Tuscany for an Abby tour and a winery tour and tasting.
Wine fermenting.
More of the winery.
Tasting continued.
Cardinal somebody.
Duncan just liked the detail in the sculpture and the way the light hit it.
We stayed in an austere, yet comfortable accommodation in an apartment near Siena's main plaza for three nights. Wandering the streets of Siena in the evening is not only a tourist event, but the locals wander as well. We learned all about the "Il Palio" horse races and the competitions between the contradas. Clever buskers entertained in front of the cafes on the main square.
While in Siena, we took a tour of the nearby Tuscan wines and abbeys. A fabulous tour guide, from the Porcupine contrada, explained everything from Brunello wines to the stories depicted in frescos in the abbey.
We loved Siena.
Florence
Reviews of Florence set our expectations high. Florence did not disappoint although visiting in the July/August timeframe is a bit crowded and quite hot. Thankfully, our hotel had air conditioning and ample water for showers. Two to three showers a day were a necessity during this month long European heat wave.
The sculptures and museums of Florence are world renowned. Christianity and/or Catholicism certainly inspired most of the large number of art works and sculptures.
Thanks to recommendations by the hotel concierge at Hotel Davanzanti, we enjoyed great meals. One evening we dined with another couple staying at the hotel and a couple of Italians from Siena at a family style table. What fun! We even stepped out to have Chinese food after a few too many Italian meals.
Since we are not allowed to photograph Michelangelo's real David sculpture at the Galleria dell'Accademia, there are several "all weather reproductions" scattered around Florence. This one is in the piazza outside the Uffizi gallery.
Here is a gigantic version at the Piazzale Michelangelo.
The impressive cathedral in Florence.
Another angle.
The Uffizi galleries from the top floor of the gallery.
The only bridge not destroyed by Hitler in WWII. Severely damaged yes, destroyed, no. Jewelry merchants are the main attraction.
This angel smokes.
More of the world's finest produce. No wonder Italian food is so good.
Nice bum.
Another dome for your viewing pleasure.
Again. Don't ask for details. Medusa's beheaded. That's all you'll need to know.
Ponte Vecchio from Piazzale Michelangelo.
The view from the Boboli gardens.
Another nice view of Florence, this time from Palazzo Pitti.
Venice
We had a great time in Venice and it was one of our favorite experiences. Staying out in the "real" Venetian neighborhood at Hotel Saint Elena gave us a real taste of how the people really live. We mingled with locals at the pizzeria and watched outdoor karaoke at the neighborhood bar. Venice looked like a great "lifestyle" city. It is unique in the world and everyone looked like they were having fun living there.
We looked forward to exploring Venice. Mixed reviews from others left us with no idea what to expect.
A view of Venice.
Three gondoliers.
A shot of Duncan in Venice
The mail plaza San Marco.
A Venice Traffic jam.
Pretty views wherever you look. Streets of water. No motorized land vehicles. Pedestrian malls. Beautiful architecture.
The Venice version of a taxi stand. Robin and Duncan went to Venice and did NOT get in a gondola. How many people can say that?
Some of the detailing on the gondolas was impressive.
Another vista.
The famous glass works in Murano displayed some cool stuff, but not practical for boat decor.
A gondola equivalent of a hood ornament? An oarlock? Not sure exactly what it is?
Interesting architecture. Crooked photo or sinking building?.
A Venetian commuter?
Mega yachts on the quay.
The marina in Venice. Just for future reference.
Venetian blinds in a state of disrepair.
Venetian blinds living up to their legacy.
The Arsenal -- an early naval fortress.
Everywhere we look the fresh food looks scrumptious. Great word, scrumptious.
We took a day trip over to Murano to see some of the glass works. Cool little mini-Venice with lots of glass shops. This photo was an attempt to be artsy with reflections. Maybe next time.
A Murano building that may need some restoration in the near future.
A Venetian taxi?
You either walk or take a boat in Venice. This wide pedestrian mall in our neighborhood starts hopping at night as entertainers, tables, chairs, and umbrellas spill out of the cafes and restaurants onto the streets. This was genuine Venice with lots of locals and very few tourists.
By contrast, the San Marcos plaza was full of tourists and only locals supporting the tourist trades.
Duncan was fascinated with the scalloped cobblestones. No matter which way you looked at them, they form a series of interlocking and layered arches. It was very difficult to see where one arch began and stopped. Duncan is easily amused.
Unfortunately, there is a real issue with litter in Venice. Tons of used plastic bottles floated everywhere. Seems like it might be time for a plastic recycling program?
The tourist areas, the canals and San Marco Square, were quite busy and, well, touristy. A water taxi dropped us in Murano for a look at the Italian glass shops and furnaces. We ferried over to Lido. From the ferry, we walked through the town to a lovely beach. We dipped our toes in the Adriatic Sea.
After a few days in Venice, it was time cross the country back over to the west coast on the Med. Our plan is to go over to Genoa, Santa Margharita, and Portofino on the Liguria coast, then go down to hike the coastline along Cinque Terre for a few days before heading back to Rome.
Ligurian Coast
Genoa is the major port on the Ligurian coast as well as a good jumping off point for exploring the more scenic areas of Liguria. The train ride from Genoa to Santa Margherita winds along the coast allowing us to see several beautiful seaside towns along the way.
Santa Margherita is the first of several beautiful coastal towns we visited in Cinque Terre. From Santa Margherita, we bused to the famous town of Portofino. Strolling the streets of Portofino eventually led us to the departure point for ferries. We chose to ferry to Rapallo for lunch as Portofino seemed to be on the high end of our lunch budget. In Rapallo, we enjoyed a lunch of octopus, swordfish and ravioli. With full bellies, we hopped on the bus back to Santa Margherita.
Genoa was a nice coastal town and just a stopping-off point for us. As we walked the city streets on a business day, we realized that these Italians have something right. This too, was a very nice and livable city.
The frilly stern of an ancient ship on the Genoa harbor. Or, it was built in the 1970's as a movie prop, then subsequently turned into a touristy restaurant.
Portofino was a day trip by bus and ferry from Santa Margharita.
The Ristorante Puny was quite cute.
A very unique version of an Italian villa perched high above the town of Portofino.
A close-up shot of the almost Asian influenced architecture.
Portofino is where the mega yachts convene. Here are several out in the harbor.
And a one near town.
The view along the Portofino waterfront.
A couple of tenders. One new technology, the other more traditional.
Olivia from Monaco was a gorgeous classic launch moored in the Portofino harbor. We want to hire the varnish expert that did this work for Whisper's teak bright work!
Is that just beautiful, or what?
One of the interesting villages along the coast between Portofino and Santa Margharita.
The small Cathedral in Santa Margharita.
With over six weeks of travel behind us, we opted to celebrate Robin's birthday with a day on the beach. With the heat wave continuing, we rented a beach umbrella and chairs on the main beach. The people watching was outstanding.
The next day, we moved on the Montorosso - another town in the Cinque Terre area. One of the great things about Cinque Terre is the ability to do lots of walking between towns. Most of the trails are walking trails and fairly easy. The only challenging walk/hike was to Vernazza from Corgnilia in part due to the extreme heat and lack of shade along the way. The good news is at the peak of the hike, there is a little "bar" to grab a water or Gatorade. By the time we finished our walking tour of the towns in Cinque Terre, we were ready for a well deserved pizza and beer.
Montorosso al Mare was our "home base" in Cinque Terre. We stayed here each night, then ventured out on foot and/or by train each day, returning to Montorosso by evening. Cinque Terre is an old wine producing region with high and steep mountains plunging into the blue-green Med. In many places the slopes were "terraced" to allow the grape vines to grow without sliding/eroding down the mountainside.
Unfortunately, you had to pay about $25 per person to sit comfortably on the beach here. Or, you could find a small space not already covered by beach chairs or a designated thoroughfare -- usually up on the rocks.
Another artsy shot of some colorful beach umbrellas.
More tasty looking fruit and veg.
And more. Real Italian food is actually so healthy and Italians are so fit. Pasta is NOT the focus.
A view from a distance back onto Montorosso al Mare. The Mediterranean water was beautiful.
The big attraction around Cinque Terre are the miles of well-groomed trails snaking along the rugged coastline and up and down the nearby mountains. We took the train from Montorosso al Mare down to Riomaggiore, then hiked back along the trail through Manarola, Corniglia, and to Vernazza, then took the short hop train ride from Vernazza back to Monterosso. It took us about a full day with many stops along the way.
In some areas, trails run parallel to the train-tracks. The trains are the easiest way to get form town to town. Trains connect to each of the villages in minutes through tunnels bored through the mountains. Auto access can take hours out and around and over each of the mountains.
One of the nice villages along Cinque Terre. This one may be Manarola.
One of the highlights of the trail is an abandoned train-tunnel where graffitti to thousands of love affairs is sprayed all over the walls on "lovers lane". We are not big fans of graffitti, so we moved through quickly without tagging anything.
The "marina" in Riomaggiore - another village along the trail.
Another nice view of quaint Manarola.
One of the more rugged areas of the trail with lots of switchbacks and steeper climbs.
We spent almost an entire day hiking through four villages along the coast. Please note that we moved at a very relaxed pace. Most people would do this trek in 5-6 hours.
Duncan in Monterosso al Mare.
Our last night in Cinque Terre, having a late dinner at our hotel. Each hotel had an outside street-side restaurant and bar.
Our flights to Singapore left us with the need to get back to Rome even though there was so much more to explore. We trained back to Rome for one final night before flying on to Singapore the next day. The streets around our Rome hotel were cordoned off and we asked why. A huge free concert with Bryan Adams and Billy Joel (headlining) was happening nearby. The streets were closed so those that didn't want to crush into the main park could watch on the big-screens scattered around the park -- one in front of our hotel. After watching the concert, we headed off to bed, excited to move on to Singapore -- our first-ever Asian destination. We spent five days there.