Huahine (and Tahaa); The Society Islands,
French Polynesia
07/09/2004 - 07/17/2004
Full foulies (foul weather gear), cool strong wind, and sloppy seas. A furrowed brow and a pirate's scowl -- Duncster the grumpster.
Just an Overnight Jump
We made the one-overnight jump from Moorea to Huahine on July 9th. It's only 89 nautical miles from Opunohu Bay on Moorea to the entrance anchorage on Huahine (who-ah-HEE-nay). This requires an overnight sail. One and two overnight sails are the worst. After two full days, a "watch routine" is usually achieved, but after only one night, we both end up feeling like we "pulled an all-nighter". After only one night, we will usually arrive cranky and tired.
We had 15 to 22 knots of wind (great!)with sloppy seas. Seeing the Huahinecoastline in the morning brought smiles to our faces!
We were on high alert as we approached the fringing reefs on the southern tip of Huahine. Arriving at dawn helped with navigation. The spray on the right of this photo are waves breaking on the reef. A peaceful lagoon lies between the reef and the island.
Just to ensure our crankiness continued well into the morning, we attempted to anchor -- unsuccessfully -- three times before we the anchor set. Afternoon naps helped both of us considerably.
We looked forward to exploring Huahine for the first time. We'd pick up Duncan's sister Susan the following day -- Sunday. For the next nine days, there will be two vahine aboard Whisper (vahine -- va-HEE-nay is woman in Polynesian -- get it? Vahine... Huahine... it rhymes...sheesh).
Anyway, the plan was gather Susan at the airport, get back to the boat and proceed south immediately to Avea Bay, the southwestern anchorage on Huahine. According to one of the cruising guides, the anchorage at Avea Bay is the best anchorage in Huahine and possibly in all the Society Islands.
After a quick run into the town of Fare to do some light provisioning, wine shopping and ATMing, we were ready for Susan's arrival.
We fell off the watermelon truck at the intersection to the Huahine airport. The air traffic controller -- a handsome young Polynesian with a canoe paddler's build -- picked us up and drove us the last mile to the terminal.
Susan Arrives!
Duncan's sister Susan was scheduled to arrive in Huahine on July 11th. Susan is one of the few boat guests we have had aboard. This will be her second visit to Whisper while we've out cruising. As a guest she pitches in, fends for herself, and respects the limited electrical and water supply. Her early traveling in RV's/Airstream's helped her adapt to these limitations quickly.
We arrived in Huahine just in time to meet up with Susan's plane. On Sunday the 11th, we went ashore early and looked for a taxi or other means of getting to the airport. We did not find one, so we started hitch-hiking. Our first ride was from a local melon farmer and we huddled in the truck-bed with a stack of watermelons and a scale. Our second ride was with the air traffic controller. He was coming to work to meet the first of the two planes arriving that day.
The Air Tahiti flight arrives right on time -- with Susan aboard!
This is the same type of inter-island plane that we flew to-and-from various islands in 1998.
Greetings completed and back on the boat, we proceed south to Avea Bay. Dolphins greeted Susan as we headed south to Avea Bay.
A treat for all... An excellent restaurant! We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Chez Mauarii, the quaint-but-classy pension at the north end of Avea Bay.
The visibility in Avea Bay was superb. We could see the bottom clearly 40 feet below Whisper.
Pointe Tiva, just south of Avea Bay provided excellent snorkeling and warm clear water. This was our first sighting of sea anemone's and a variety of clown and anemone fish. We're big "Finding Nemo" fans, so this was very fun. Or maybe we're just easily amused?
The beach at Avea Bay provided excellent swimming, kayaking, and snorkeling. Two pensions and a park are the shoreside attractions. There is a hike up in the hills, but we focused on water activities while here. We wouldn't have much time in Huahine, so we wanted to enjoy "the highlights" of the on-the-water activities. Snorkeling and exploring in the dinghy were high on our priority list.
A large surfing charter boat anchored nearby. The crew climbed the mast steps to enjoy the sunset from the top spreaders.
Susan's prominent tattoo is less geometric than the Polynesian styles, but here in Huahine, it attracted only admiration. The Polynesians invented this stuff.
The Plan
Once Susan relaxed for a day or two, it was time to discuss the options for the remainder of her trip. Susan's airline ticket scheduled to fly her out of Bora Bora on Tuesday, the 20th of July. Only nine days to play in paradise - bummer.
We baked up a couple of plans and presented her some choices. Plan "A" was to stay in Huahine a few more days, then sail directly to Bora Bora. Plan "B" was to leave Huahine on Thursday the 15th, then sail to Tahaa -- half-way between Huahine and Bora Bora. There is a great "Vanilla Tour" on Tahaa that we enjoyed while chartering in 1998. We thought she might like it -- it's a botanical tour of Tahaa, and an optional black pearl farm visit. The problem with Plan "B" is that it would cut our time in Bora Bora.
Susan liked plan "B", so we left Huahine on the 15th and headed the 25 nautical miles to an anchorage in Tahaa. With only 5 knots of wind, we ended up motor sailing the entire trip. Sorry Susan, that sometimes happens... We arrived late afternoon on the 15th and took a mooring at Marina Iti in Apu Bay on the south end of Tahaa.
The Tia Moana, a stunning boutique cruise ship from Bora Bora Cruises followed us around the leeward islands of the Societies. On this morning, a shore excursion brought maybe 100 or so passengers to a nearby beach for a brunch picnic.
The "deep" over-water bungalows of the Hotel Te Tiare Beach Resort. This is one of the nice larger resorts on Huahine. We sailed by this resort, but did not have time to visit the restaurant or explore the grounds.
The twin islands (surrounded by one large lagoon) of Raiatea and Tahaa -- twenty or so nautical miles to the west of Huahine.
A motor-sail was required to get from Huahine to Tahaa. Five knots of wind is insufficient to get there in one day under sail alone.
Robin and Susan enjoying a relaxing afternoon motor sail. Robin at the helm while entering the eastern pass to the lagoon that surrounds Tahaa.
One of the beautiful protected bays on the east side of Tahaa. Restaurant Hibiscus lies inside this bay, but we are heading to Marina Iti in Apu Bay at the south end.
In Tahaa, we skipped the Restaurant Hibiscus, one of our favorite 1998 charter-boating restaurants, and proceeded south inside the lagoon. We wanted to be closer to the bay where the Vanilla Tour starts. Marina Iti in Apu bay offered free moorings, a small bar, and excellent restaurant. We visited here in 1998, but could not remember how good it was. This 2004 experience refreshed our memory -- it was excellent. Once seen, we recalled the fond memories of 1998.
Early the next morning, we made a beeline for Hurepiti Bay and the Vanilla Tour. We tried hailing the Vanilla Tour on their designated VHF channel, but missed them -- we had switched channels back to the main hailing channel before they had time to respond.
The crazed Maupiti Express. In future encounters, we steered a wide avoidance course. Here (weeks later), the ferry blasts by us on its way to Maupiti. We're not sure if it was the same skipper and mate. Hopefully, they were both fired and these guys are new.
Somewhere in this quick morning transit between bays, the inter-island ferry -- the Maupiti Express came blasting through the western pass at full speed. At roughly the "11 o'clock" position off our port bow, the boat seemed to be steering right toward us. Duncan was down below in the aft cabin (motor running -- couldn't hear a thing), Robin was at the helm (calling for Duncan), and Susan was observing the events. Red Alert, Robin yelled (a code for "I need you up here now"). Duncan didn't hear a thing and did not appear.
Robin kept turning to the right to avoid the ferry in an attempt to pass port-to-port. The ferry kept steering directly toward us. At one point, we were perpendicular to the path of the ferry, with Robin jamming us forward at full throttle in an attempt to get out of the rapidly converging path of the ferry. Just to upset us even more, the mate on the ferry was standing on deck yelling at US as they passed only 10 yards off our stern.
Duncan sensed the boat turning and heard the engine crank even louder, then came up to investigate -- just as the huge wake from the ferry hit Whisper's stern and the ferry blasted by at 25 knots. Although we are not sure exactly why the ferry skipper did what he did, steering directly at us -- he endangered two vessels and scared the poo out of at least two people (Susan and Robin), and rattled a third (Duncan). Duncan was oblivious to the entire crisis until it was described to him. We now keep a whistle in the cockpit for quick summoning, although it's not clear that Duncan's presence during this event would have changed anything (unless he was holding a rocket launcher).
We arrived at the dock of Vanilla Tour operator shaken by the excess adrenaline -- but without reservations, something we should have considered but didn't. Unfortunately, Alain had already left on his daily tour and Christine (his wife) was there to tell us that not only had we missed today's tour, but they were booked on Saturday, and closed on Sunday -- but they might be able to take us on Monday. Then, they were solidly booked for two weeks. Oh well, the best laid plans... Next time, we'll think to call ahead and make a reservation. Christine sent us off with a few freshly picked pamplemousse (grapefruit), and said she hoped to see us again -- if not Monday, someday. She is just as sweet as we remembered from '98.
No worries. After some discussion of options, analysis of variables, and an intense decision making session (better than a coin toss?) -- we decided to leave Tahaa immediately and set sail for Bora Bora.