Toau, Archipel des Tuamotu
06/03/2004 - 06/06/2004
These guys watched us approach the anchorage at Anse Amyot on the Toau atoll. Mana and Jean-Paul, guided us into the anchorage to a mooring ball.
With a population of around 40 people, Toau is a sleepy atoll lying southeast of Apataki and northwest of Fakarava. We visited a cove anchorage, Anse Amyot, just outside the northwest corner of the atoll. Anse Amyot is home to a small "village" with three houses and a population/family of 10 people. The matriarch of the family leaves in the nicest house. Then, her son, Taupiti, and daughter, Valentine, live with their families in the other homes in the village. Luckily for us, we spent a bunch of time with the family.
For three days, we were the only boat in the anchorage. The magnificent motus and mutli-colored water surrounded us. We felt like we were liking inside a picturesque watercolor painting.
Fishing is the main occupation of the men in the village. Ciguatera, a disease frequently found in fish occupying coral seas including the Tuamotus. Fortunately for the villagers in Toau, the fish in their atoll do not currently carry the toxin. The fish of the neighboring atoll of Fakarava do carry the toxin. Supply and demand allows the folks of Toau to sell lots of fish in Fakarava.
These guys are amazing spear fishermen. They free dive (i.e., dive with just mask, fins and snorkel) down to 60 feet and spear 60 fish each in a single outing. They either put the fish in fish traps or immediately skin and filet the fish before putting them in a cooler or frig.
Taupiti, Mana & Jean-Paul's father, turns his kitchen into a restaurant at night. This was a perfect setting for a magnificent feast. We did not capture photographs at the dinner, but imagine a table with grouper, unicorn fish, pasta, blue jack, bread, cantaloupe, and much more.
We enjoyed the catch(s) of the day during a feast at Taupiti's "restaurant" located in his kitchen. Taupiti and his sons, Mana and Jean-Paul, brought out one plate of fish after another. Mana and Jean Paul cooked the fish. Taupiti made the poisson cru and the smoked chicken. We had such a great time with them.
The next night, we joined Gaston and Valentine for dinner. Another incredible feast was prepared. Not only did we enjoy the food, but a most memorable night was shared by all.
New technology! On the day we arrived, the big excitement was the installation of a phone in the 10 person "village". We tried to make a phone call to the U.S., but the system was not yet working for long distance calls. A solar panel powers the system. We assume the technology is cellular since there are no wires.
Old technology! An overwater toilet provides a decent view while taking care of business.
Gaston and Valentine prepared a feast for us on our second night in Anse Amyot. What a feast it was! Lobster, poisson cru, coconut crusted parrot fish, chicken curry, rice, and coconut cake allowed us to eat more than we'd consumed in a long time. Valentine, her daughter Davina and Robin check out the taste treats.
Here is a close-up photo of the girls. Check out Leonardo the baby chicken. Leonardo (aka Leo) was named after Leonardo di Caprio. Robin even held Leo for a short period of time. We are hopeful that Leo's sister was not in the chicken curry! By th way, does Leo look like he is getting goosed?
This coconut palm tree decided to keep going even though it toppled over at some point.
A constant outgoing current between 1/2 and 2 knots flowed through the anchorage. Fish suspended themselves by the side of the boat to catch other fishies passing by in gravy train.