RVing southwest Colorado;
The San Juan Mountains and Ouray
09/23/2003 - 09/28/2003
The view of Ouray from the Amphitheater Campground. The Million $ Highway snakes off through the gorge to the left -- heading back south toward Silverton and Durango. The 4WD road heading up the canyon to the right goes through the Mt. Sneffels wilderness and over a high-mountain pass into Telluride.
The mule deer at the Amphitheater are a bit too friendly. The locals feed them so they have come to expect handouts. This one walks right up to our picnic table as if to say "What have you got for me?"
Ouray, Colorado and the Amphitheater Campground
On the first night in Ouray, we decided to drive up a small road above the town to the newly remodeled Amphitheater Campground. We read great things about the campground and wanted to spend a week there while exploring the area.
When we met with the campground hosts to pay our fee, we discovered the parks would be closing in three days -- and we needed to be out by 11am that day. We spent two nights and had a very relaxing couple of days -- hiking, reading, barbequing, and watching DVD's -- basically just relaxing.
The 84 year old gentleman in his RV next to us was in better shape physically (and mentally) than most 40 year olds! An ex-Olympian Ski-jumper and WWII vet, this guy was an inspiration to anyone worried about aging!
Another great old mining town, Ouray, Colorado
After walking around for two days wondering how to say the name of the town (we just said "OOO-ray/you-RAY" in every sentence where the town name was required -- the nice bartender at the local tavern (where we watched Survivor) informed us that it was in-fact, you-RAY. Okay, that is settled.
We first drove through Ouray on the San Juan Skyway (the Million $ Highway is a chunk of the 262 mile loop). Although not a box canyon like Telluride, Ouray has its own tributary "Box Cañon" hike, a hot springs, 4WD tours into the surrounding mountains, passes and canyons, and a very cute downtown. This old mining town sits in an awesomely beautiful canyon (especially with the fall colors). The cross-country/back-country skiing, snowmobiling, and snow-shoeing (on the 4WD roads) provide winter recreation opportunities.
The Beaumont building is a new building constructed in a traditional "old west mining town" style.
The Western Hotel is still standing and very authentic -- with sloping porches, roof-lines, and ancient poured-glass windows that are hard to see through.
The colors are turning now!
Roughing it at the 4J
We stayed in the nice 4J RV park & campground downtown on the Uncompaghre River. Uncompaghre (un-come-PA-gray) means "dirty water" or "water that turns rocks red" (depending on who we talked to). This it did. The rocks down the entire river were dyed red and orange -- mineral-laden water and old mine-tailings contribute to the dirty water.
Full hook-ups, hot showers, new bathrooms and showers, walking distance to the hot springs. Nice.
We enjoyed one afternoon at the hot springs. A large multi-segment swimming pool with different temp waters was OK, but not what we picture as a hot spring.
Our shady site in the 4J RV Park and Campground.
The stern of the RV hangs out over the Uncompaghre River. The 4J setting is beautiful and it is only a three block walk into downtown Ouray.
Our hike from the 4J takes us up to Ouray's Box Cañon. The views from the top of the canyon hike (looking east) are spectacular. The Amphitheater is the darker mountain "bowl" on the right. The Amphitheater campground is nestled in the trees on the hill in front of the Amphitheater. Town is in the foreground.
The bottom of the cool Box Cañon, looking out to the very warm day.
Ouray's Box Cañon
Enough relaxing and lounging in hot springs, lets get out and hike! Off we go on a picnic-hike to the top and bottom of Ouray's Box Cañon. First we hiked to the top, where a bridge over the falls provides a great view of the falls and the town valley. Then back down to the bottom of the falls. A few quick wet pictures (and a 30°F temperature change), then back up to the Ice Park for a picnic lunch.
Robin watches the falls from the top-of-the-falls hike.
A scaffold of stairs provides access to the base of the falls.
The falls crash into a pool at the base of the canyon. Nice and cool down in here!
Robin and Duncan were the only passengers on the 4WD vehicle designed to carry at least 6 people.
4WD Tour
Although a bit touristy, we decided to take a 4WD tour with Switzerland of America Tours. From 1 PM until 5 PM-ish we explored the rugged back-country with our guide and driver "Captain Joe".
Although only about 20 miles into the wilderness (and 20 back), it took the entire afternoon. Steep grades, narrow pot-holed, water-covered roads, narrow bridges, streambeds, overhanging cliffs -- very fun, yet lots of photo-ops.
Duncan and Capt. Joe. Capt. Joe originally designed and sold 4WD modified jeeps for use in Moab and the desert 4WD terrain. His friends in Ouray convinced him to semi-retire here and drive jeep tours all summer.
One of Capt. Joe's competitors hangs on the edge of the 4WD track.
The fall colors are in full swing in the back-country.
Looking down into the valley above one of Ouray's biggest old mines. The chemical filled discarded mine tailings fill the valley. Nothing will grow on it. By the way, it's for sale...
Duncan tries to capture the beauty of the valley color change with his new camera (Canon EOS 10D digital).
One of the abandoned buildings in Sneffels, a mining ghost town high in the back country.
Mt. Sneffels area peaks. Some of the area peaks exceed 14,000 ft.
Right: The waterfall in the Mt. Sneffels wilderness -- allegedly, this falls once appeared on the Coors beer can?
On our way back down to Ouray. The valleys get dark quickly!
We enjoyed our week in Ouray and it was a nice contrast with Telluride.
Even though our original plan was to just sit in southwest Colorado and relax, we got the "exploration bug" and decided to venture north to the Gunnison uplift (and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison), then west to Utah. We heard cool things about Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park in Utah.
At the (great!) bookstore in Ouray, we acquired Edward Abbey's Desert Solitaire and The Monkey Wrench Gang and started reading about the incredible Utah desert. So off we go!