RVing southwest Colorado;
The San Juan Mountains and Telluride
09/13/2003 - 09/21/2003
The lonesome highway across Arizona on the way to the Four Corners Monument and Colorado. It is over 105° Fahrenheit. We are in a hurry to get to altitude.
Southwestern Colorado
We drove all day -- from the Catalina State Park in Tucson to Cortez in southwest Colorado.
We took a quick turn into Four Corners Monument (Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico meet) to snap a photo of the monument. As we proceeded down the short road, we noticed the "government-like" brown signs announcing a "Monument" (not a National Monument) and large yellow signs ahead announcing Moccasins for sale. There was an entrance fee. Hmmm. Hey! You cannot fool us -- this could be our first tourist trap!
Looking north into Monument Valley. Again, in a hurry to find cool air. We consider seeing Monument Valley on the way back to Tucson.
Leaving Four Corners. We left Arizona and went only two blocks into New Mexico. After this left turn, we'll enter Colorado.
Robin crafts a tasty dinner in the Cortez KOA.
We decided not to fall for the trap and hung a U-ey -- turning toward Cortez.
In Cortez, we cranked up the RV air-conditioning at the Kortez KOA Kampground and enjoyed a great dinner on board. Nearby Mesa Verde National Park will wait until the end of our trip.
The Million Dollar Highway
We're anxious to get to the lower range of the Rocky Mountains -- the spectacular San Juan's. to get to the lower range of the Rocky Mountains -- the San Juan's, with their brilliant fall colors, and a "Million Dollar Highway" paved the way to take us there.
Southern approach to the San Juan's on the "Million Dollar Highway". So named because of the quantity of precious metals in the original 1860's road-bed. Here, we pass Durango Mountain Resort -- once known as "Purgatory Ski Area".
The RV at Molas Pass Winter Recreation Area. One of several beautiful passes along the "Million Dollar Highway".
A peak at Molas Pass. This year, the first snow came in early September.
Robin explores the look-out at Molas Pass while Dunc snaps a distant telephoto.
Dunc poses in his "I'm a cool RV'er" stance.
About 15 miles out of Telluride, we found a fine campsite-with-a-view at the Matterhorn campground.
Telluride, CO
If you read the summer road trip logs, you may have gathered that Telluride was one of our favorite discoveries of the summer.
We decided to return to Telluride for more exploration. A brief inquiry into a month-long vacation rental ($7,000 dollars not pesos), influenced the decision to rent an RV (6-weeks, less than 1/2 that cost).
When we arrived in Telluride, it was the last day of the annual Blues and Brews Festival. Telluride is known for its numerous festivals.
Robin prepares our delicious dinner of loaded bakers. We're carbo-loading.
Since Telluride is a "go out of your way to get here" town, they entice people to visit year-round with festivals such as the Blues & Brews fesitval.
The Town Park Campground (only a few RV sites) was at capacity and the Blues show was sold out. We retreated to the mountains -- about 15 miles out of town -- to camp for the night at the Matterhorn campground.
The Matterhorn Campground offered full hook-ups and friendly campground hosts. The baked potatoes (potato or potatoe? Where is Dan Quayle when you need him?) did not get very baked -- so next time, they'll go down in the coals.
We left Matterhorn the next morning and drove back to town. The plan was to competitively scrambled for a campsite in the town park. We were told the campground opened at 11 AM after festival cleanup completed.
The sunset alpenglow view from our site in the Matterhorn campground.
At 10 AM, the nice campground office-lady told us to just go in when the park opens at 3 PM (post-Festival late-opening time), pick a site, then come back and check in at the office.
We were the second RV into the park at 3:01 PM. We grabbed a great riverfront site at 3:02 PM. Unfortunately, the same nice office-lady had already pre-sold our site and all of the others large enough for an RV. The long line of RV's behind us already had their assigned and purchased sites! Go figure. The nice folks (from Santa Barbara, CA) whose site we occupied, decided they would probably only need one of their two sites -- so they sold us the week in their second site! -- at cost!.
Our new neighbors from Santa Barbara, Dean and Larry, were there for the week long Paragliding Nationals -- a "cross-country" paragliding competition. Much more on the paragliding competition comes later in the log -- it is too cool.
Although we planned to sit tight for a few weeks in the Telluride town park campground, the local laws against RVagrants pushed us on to new destinations after only seven days.
Our great site in the Telluride Town Park Campground. The cute town is across the river, and the colorful mountains rise all around the small town (pop. 5000). It is about a 3-block walk to downtown Telluride. Dean and Larry, the paragliders, are tucked into the site over there on the right.
The picnic table and grill behind the RV. With river and town views!
Spectacular mountain views and the San Juan river view out the back.
No wonder they only want people staying here a maximum of 7-days in any 30 day period!
This was our home base for the full 7 days.
Just across the river from our campsite, a view of Telluride's quaint residential area.
Right: The view of the mountain and falls at the head of the box canyon that surrounds Telluride.
The oaks are beginning to change. Within a few weeks, Telluride's Aspens will be in full-yellow regalia.
Daily, water-dogs (and their owners) gather along the banks of the San Juan river to play.
Downtown Telluride. Restaurants, coffee shops, Internet cafes, galleries, shops, sporting goods, real estate offices, ACE Hardware. Everything a resort town needs.
The San Miguel County Courthouse in downtown Telluride.
Our favorite cafe in Telluride. The Coffee Cowboy offers delicious lattes, tasty pastries, and shady outdoor seating. We met some nice folks and overheard most of the town's gossip exchanged here.
The view of downtown Telluride from the free gondola. Alred's, the fine-dining restaurant at the top of the gondola, offered a great bar, and an awesome sunset, and new friends.
Although not as many groomed-blue cruising runs (we prefer) -- we can't wait to try Telluride for winter downhill skiing and other recreational activities. Maybe the winter of 2005-6?
Telluride's limited real estate market. You can't be too close to the slope or mountain bottoms because of avalanche dangers. Up to the right is the end of the box canyon with only a small 4 Wheel Drive (summer only) outlet.
There is a visible pro and anti (mostly anti?) development environment in-and-around Telluride. With the beauty of this area, it is easy to see why! The people that already live here want to protect it as it is. The people that would love to move here would bring all the growth related impacts. With home supplies outstripping demand, the prices beat some of the nicer areas of California! We entertained the idea of buying something here someday, but for now -- we'll let that idea brew.
This classic old mining town has retained its charm and its architecture.
Probably the nicest small-town Library we've ever visited. They had everything!
The library "Telluride Room", housing all documents and micro-fiche describing Telluride's history. The gorgeous cherry-wood table (donated), high rotunda, and halogen chandelier made us want to move in.
Instead, we camped out in a library conference room and worked on the web-site. Finally, we worked on the first 2-month 10K mile summer tour.
Robin PC is 802.11 wireless to the library's wireless Internet connection. Duncan's PC is wired to Robin's PC and he shares her Internet connection. We update and surf, surf and update. Very cool...and it is free!
A trip to the farmer's market nets us a fresh stash-o veggies, a huge chicken, and a French bread baguette.
Right: If these here puny squarsh ain't good nuff fer ya pardner, we got The Lord's squarsh over there on the ground...
What a great setting for the Paragliding Nationals!
The 2003 US Paragliding Nationals
Telluride was the site of the 2003 Paragliding Nationals -- an event where paragliders compete on a "cross country" course. Paragliding is HUGE in Europe and is catching on in the US. Many of these competitors (and prior year champions) are from Europe.
Each day, an aerial "course" of waypoints (tasks) are established by the flight judges. Each day, competitors get these waypoints (at the last minute) and program the "tasks" into their GPS(s). They carry a sophisticated altimeter that provides ascent/decent warnings, a GPS (or two), oxygen, radios, a reserve chute, and a full complement of safety gear to prevent injury and hypothermia.
Our first glimpse of the competition from the top of the gondola (10K+ ft). Dozens of paragliders ride thermal columns and climb to the necessary altitude. These pilots are nearing 15K ft.
Once at the necessary altitude, the 90-100 paragliders beeline across the Telluride valley toward their next designated waypoint. The white specs are the mob heading over to a waypoint across the valley.
The competitors get trucked to the top on service roads. Spectators without sturdy 4X4's are left to climb on foot from 10,300 to 12,000 feet.
Let's get closer to the Action!
Duncan had a strong desire to see both the take-off and landing techniques with an eye to trying this sometime in the future.
We began our hike from the top of the gondola up the "See Forever" intermediate ski run. The vertical climb is only about 1700 feet over about 2.5 miles -- to the top of Gold Hill and the launch area. Piece-of-cake, right. Not. From about 11,000 to 12,000 feet (the launch area), we were running on empty. Although acclimated to the 8,000 foot elevation in town, we were NOT acclimated to 12,000 ft. with steep slopes!
Marching up the "See Forever" intermediate run seemed to "Take Forever", but the views are worth it! One show-off RAN to the top in about 1/2 hour. Most took an hour. We took almost two hours to get to 12,000 feet. The precarious footing on the downhill (off this service road) takes just as long.
Time to test these winds.
Wooo ho! He banks and turns and swoops.
Looks good, but we can tell the wind is gusty and strong.
Wind Test
There is a designated safety flyer that checks out the wind for the competition and the competitors. The test this day proves the winds are too strong to risk a competitive day, but a fun "just go fly around" day is in order.
A competition related death on the first day led the organizers toward the conservative side for the remaining competition days.
Off in the distance, the tiny Telluride Airport stripes the mesa-top. The short runway and immediate drop-offs on each end of the runway make this one of the most challenging in the US. A recent proposal to lengthen and change the runway is being argued now.
Dean (our paragliding campsite neighbor) -- sitting down left, awaits the go/no-go decision on the day's competition.
Competitors scrounge through their gear getting ready to fly down. The guy in the left center has his oxygen dispenser hose strapped under his nose.
Decision time. No-go. Not a competition day, but pilots are free to fly down. Some head for the town LZ (Landing Zone), some make a day of riding the thermals.
The launch area gets pretty busy. Some pilots were still taking off at 5 PM...
Lay out the wing. Walk downhill laying out the shrouds. Twist to look uphill. Pull the shrowds. Wing launches. Pilot spins to point downhill.
Check the wing and shrouds. Look good? Walk downhill (or run if less wind).
Launch. Sit back and steer. Have a nice flight! Here, new acquaintance Sylvia takes off.
Spiraling up on a thermal column, this pilot is already several hundred feet above the launch area.
Off they go. See you down at the LZ.
Wrapping-up at the Landing Zone.
Another Expensive Activity?
Duncan mentioned to Dean that this might be another fun hobby/activity/sport to take up. Dean (and sever other pilots confirmed) that the sport is highly addictive. Seriously, contagiously, obsessively addictive. To the point where people quit work (!) in order to fly as much as they can!
Since sailing, traveling, and diving seem to be our current addictions, we decided to wait until New Zealand to try out paragliding.
Till we ski again...
Since it will be a couple of years before we get back to Telluride again, we'll say goodbye for now. It is a fun, funky, quirky, wealthy, hippie, poor, and wacky little town -- may it stay that way until our next visit! We look forward to our first winter ski vacation there. Someday, maybe we'll pick up a little cabin on one of the nearby mesas as a getaway place? Maybe we'll just visit when the mood strikes us?
Who knows? Telluride ranks near the top of our list of favorite places!