San Evaristo to Puerto Gato
04/26/2003 - 04/29/2003
Check out the scenery en route to San Evaristo
Almost a week in Isla San Francisco provided the desired acclimation to hanging on the hook in beautiful places. With the prospects of beautiful sailing winds, we decided to sail on to another anchorage.
A distant seven miles away is an anchorage called San Evaristo. With only seven miles to travel and fun sailing winds, we decided to turn the seven mile trip into a fourteen mile trip by simply sailing around between Isla San Francisco and San Evaristo. Tacking back and forth under full sail started to fill the desire for sailing we missed on our motor over from Mazatlán. Then, we turned Whisper toward our destination to enjoy a wonderful downwind sail to San Evaristo.
San Evaristo - a tiny fishing village on the east side of the Baja peninsula
Sailing by the colorful, grand desert mountains plunging into the ocean reminded us of the silly country song where California fell off into the ocean, leaving "Oceanfront Property in Arizona". The scenery looks like the mountains and canyons of Arizona, with a clear blue ocean lapping on its shores! We received our first sense of why people become infatuated with the Sea of Cortez.
When we arrived in San Evaristo, only one other boat, Elena, was anchored in the small bay. We tucked Whisper in behind the protection of a bluff. At this point, the decision on whether to stay more than one night was yet to be made. Many boats were on the move north to Puerto Escondido for the Loreto Fest festival. As we sat in the cockpit contemplating a plan for the next day, five more boats arrived in the anchorage.
One of the great cruiser past times is watching other vessels anchor. Widely varying anchoring techniques provide many avenues of discussion and critique amongst fellow boaters. Just as fun to watch a vessel anchoring is watching people on the surrounding boats. As a vessel enters an anchorage, you can hear all the boat owners whispering under their breath, "Anchor over there by XYZ boat, not by me". In the case of San Evaristo, the protected portion of the anchorage is relatively small. Everyone played their part in the anchoring ballet. The trawler came barreling in and set their anchor at ramming speed while Robin sat in the cockpit muttering "Wow, they come in fast". Duncan peered through one of the portlights in his role as the anchoring voyeur. Always subtle and whiteout appearing to be watching, Duncan guards Whisper's territory with diplomacy. As each boat arrives, Robin sits in the cockpit wondering aloud "Dunc, do you think they anchored too close or on top of our anchor?" while Duncan peeks through a portlight and replies "No, I think they are okay.". Finally everyone is settled and we can start relaxing again.
San Evaristo's one room schoolhouse with over 20 students
The number of boats moving north at a rapid pace to get to Loreto Fest influenced us to stay in San Evaristo for a second night. Given that decision, the next morning we launched the dinghy, Shout, and headed into check out the village. After securing Shout, we started to walk along the beach. Another couple landed their dinghy on shore and we stopped to say hello. John and Vicky from the sailing vessel Elena introduced themselves and gave us a quick introduction to the sites of San Evaristo. They invited us to join them for a visit to the village school. John and Vicky brought along gifts to give to the children.
Spanish coloring books from the "dollar store"
John and Vicky decided to "adopt" the school in San Evaristo. A multitude of coloring books, crayons, stickers and stuffed animals appeared out of the bags we helped carry to the school. The beautiful, polite children patiently waited their turn to pick out the books, stickers and toys of their choosing. The children of Mexico continually amaze us with their polite, well-mannered, respectful behavior. Whether receiving gifts, sharing with other children or interacting with family, Mexican children conduct themselves in the same generous, courteous manner as the Mexican adults. These admirable qualities of the people of Mexico leave us honored to be allowed to spend time in their country.
The most excitement came when John pulled out the photographs taken of the children from the last visit to the school. John printed the digital photos and brought them to the children. Hector, the teacher, tacked the photos up on the wall and each child identified them self in the picture. Meanwhile, Duncan took a video of the events and played it back for the kids. This seemed to amuse the children.
John, Vicky and the teacher, Hector, teach us a lesson on giving
Polite Mexican girls receive gifts of coloring books, crayons, stickers and stuffed animal purses
The main road into San Evaristo supports the movement of fish and salt to La Paz
We said our good byes and continued on our exploration of San Evaristo. By now, our heads were spinning with ideas planted by John and Vicky. Not only did we love the idea of adopting a school, but they planted another seed. John and Vicky are retired and leaving their boat in Mexico. However, in July and August, they head back to the US to go to work at Yellowstone National Park. The idea of working at a national park sounds like a great way to earn a little money while working in a beautiful place. Hmmmm, let's remember to consider this idea when we want to earn some money and take a break from the boat. We pondered the possibilities as we continued our hike to the salt ponds and other beach in San Evaristo.
Enough salt to support many margarita's
Simple and fancy graves. Is it wrong to take pictures of a graveyard?
Hmmmm, will the fish co-op sell us a fish?
On the way back from the San Evaristo walking tour, we stopped at a house pointed out to us by John and Vicky. Supposedly, a lady inside cooks hot dogs for lunch. Okay, let's see. We timidly approached the house and called out to the lady in the doorway, "Hot dogs? Comida?". Comida means lunch in Spanish. "Si.", she called as she waved us up to the house. While preparing the hot dogs, she asked us if we knew John and Bicky (Vicky). Her daughters, now setting the 2 seat picnic table, recognized us from the visit to the school. The most delicious hot dogs arrived smothered in mayonnaise, onions and tomatoes. Just as we finished the dogs, John and Vicky arrived to visit with the family. We paid for the hot dogs and moved on to the tiny village store. With tortilla chips, limes and onions in hand, we walked back toward the dinghy. The little shacks on the beach bustled with activity. Perhaps we should try to buy a fish.
Yes! Check out the beautiful cabrilla sardinera.
The shacks are used by the fisherman to load up the freshly caught fish into pick-up trucks to take to La Paz as a part of the fish co-op. Just as we walked up, a boat of fish was being loaded into the huge cooler in the back of the truck. Duncan hopped on to the back of the truck to pick out a fish. Without knowing the Spanish name of many types of fish, Duncan choose one that looked good. At first, we thought the man told us it was a pargo, but once we looked it up in our fish book we realized it was a cabrilla or leopard grouper. Duncan filleted the fish followed by Robin preparing it in olive oil, garlic and lime. What a day!
What's that over there? Another fish camp!
Scenic Puerto El Gato
The next morning we weighed anchor and decided to head north to another anchorage. Which one? Who knows. We will figure that out later. Sailing with only the gennaker in light wind gave us plenty of time to figure out where to go. A pod of over 50 dolphins joined Whisper for part of the journey north. The coastline treated us to one gorgeous mountain view after another.
Another wonderful sail along the beautiful Baja coastline
One great view after another
Colorful Puerto El Gato with red cliffs
Between the cruising guides and comments from other vessels, we decided to stop in Puerto El Gato. Reddish-orange-ish cliffs separated two beautiful beaches with a huge sand dune backdrop. A quick snorkeling adventure confirmed that the water is still not warm enough for us. The next snorkeling trip will include wetsuits.
Mmmmm, dinner delivered boatside
Just as Robin contemplated the menu for dinner, a fisherman in a panga pulled up to Whisper offering lobster. Outstanding! Duncan put in an order for 1 grande and 2 small lobster. Manuel drove off to go hunt for the order after requesting a beer or a shot of tequila. Robin opted for giving him a beer since he was now in charge of the hunter/gatherer role for dinner. Over an hour passed and Robin started to wonder whether a Plan B should be formed. As skepticism mounted, the whrrrrr of an outboard could be heard in the distance. With her mouth watering, Robin drooled on the binoculars while identifying the panga as Manuel's lobster delivery service. An inverse proportion of lobster caught to beer consumed is probably a thought that should occur prior to giving the hunter/gatherer a beer. Manuel delivered only one very dead looking grande lobster and one very alive small lobster. Oh well, some lobster is better than none. Manuel hoped to find more tomorrow.
Iron Chef Duncan prepares the lobster on the grill
Duncan slayed the lobster and disposed of everything except the tails. Neither one of us wanted to work hard enough to eat anything but the tails. Duncan fired up the bbq and Robin melted the butter. The small lobster was delicious and the grande lobster tasted a little older and tougher. We enjoy these unexpected treats. The Sea of Cortez gets better every minute.
So this is where the southwestern art gets its colors
In deciding to visit the Sea of Cortez, we mutually expressed concerns -- we prefer tropical environs over desert. Green palm fronds, turquoise water and white sand beaches are gorgeous -- and usually what we look for.
Now, we start to experience the beauty of pink, white, yellow, red, and green rock mountains as the backdrop to white sand beaches and green-turquoise water.
As we watched the colorful sunset in Puerto El Gato, we reflected on our first week in the Sea of Cortez. The beauty of this desert landscape-meets ocean subtly remind us that both arid desert and lush tropical are amazingly beautiful. It appears no earthquakes will be required to provide this phenomenon for those who wish to see it. This California (Baja California Sur), does appear to have tumbled into the sea -- and we like it!