Decisions, Decisions
11/13/2002 - 11/30/2002
Maybe we need a yellow "Booby on Board" sign for our minivan window. Actually two boobies -- there is another balanced on the masthead. They rode with us all night and would not leave -- even upon arriving in Mazatlan.
The Baja Ha-Ha was over and there we were -- anchored in Cabo, trying to decide where to go next. We leaned toward a quick trip north to La Paz -- about a 3-4 day trip in favorable weather. We would spend only a few weeks there, leaving time to escape to the mainland and warm weather (before the winter winds set in).
Strong northerly winds (a.k.a. norther's) kept us hunkered down in Cabo awaiting a weather window. Our plan -- to poke around the cape and head north into the Sea of Cortez would be difficult with strong north winds directly on the bow. We started discussing a possible "revised plan".
We spent the morning of the 12th reading about La Paz and the "northbound route" -- from Cabo, to Bahia Frailes, to Bahia de los Muertos, to La Paz. We spent the afternoon reading about Mazatlán and Puerto Vallarta.
At 6:30 pm the evening of the 13th, we listened to the weather and made our decision. Whisper was Mazatlán bound.
Passage from Cabo San Lucas to Mazatlan, Mexico
Approaching Mazatlán marina harbor at dawn. You can barely see the 20 or so sport fishing boats heading right for us.
We estimated the trip from Cabo to Mazatlan would take about 35 hours. We left at 7:30 pm on the 13th and sailed straight for Mazatlan harbor on a close reach. About half way through the trip, we decided to head for the marina area of Mazatlan, about 7 miles north of the main harbor entrance.
On Robin's watch the first night out, we encountered two huge Princess cruise ships traveling in tandem and exactly on our reciprocal course line (i.e. heading straight for us). At first we thought the were shrimp boats, but when the finally appeared on radar 12 miles away and appearing HUGE, we knew it was time for evasive action. We turned 90 degrees to the right and got out of their way. The ships passed us within 1/2 nautical mile -- so close, we could see the lights flashing in the ship's disco!
Several other (mostly Ha-Ha) boats had left Bahia Frailes (on the Baja, inside the sea of Cortez, about 40 miles north of Cabo) the next morning and were converging on Mazatlan.
We had a few late night radio discussions with these boats about weather, conditions, entering the Mazatlan channel at dawn, and which marinas we might try. It was not at all lonely out there.
The next day, to our surprise, we heard friends back in Frailes talking on the radio. When we tried to call them, they could hear us loud and clear! Our VHF radio reached all the way back to Bahia Frailes-- about 160 miles away. Later in the week, we were able to converse with boats anchored in Frailes while we were at the dock in Mazatlan -- over 200 miles away on a radio that usually (normal atmospheric conditions) only reaches about 30 miles away.
We arrived outside Mazatlan during the second night of sailing (at about 4:30 am) and decided to heave-to (stop the boat) about 5 miles out and await daylight before entering.
A sport fisherman blasts by close on our port beam.
While hove-to, a shrimp boat circled Whisper for an hour before Duncan warned him off with a 2 million candlepower illumination of our immobile sails.
At exactly 6:30 am, as we made our way closer to the harbor entrance, we were met by about 20 sport fishing boats blasting out to sea to start a big fishing tournament.
The wakes from these boats delivered the roughest seas we had seen on the entire crossing -- a very confused 6-foot chop from all directions. It was kind of fun, but only because we knew it would only last a few minutes!
Finding the entrance was tricky, but we could see boats coming out, so we headed toward them until the entrance was clearly visible. Although the channel was shallow and narrow and the dredge reached well into the channel, our well-timed entry at high slack water (and daylight) made it easy.
Where to stay?
Unfortunately, the El Cid marina was hosting the fishing tournament, so they were full for at least 4 days. El Cid is a resort with restaurants, pools, spas, condominiums, and a marina. We decided to swing over to the Mazatlan Marina to see if they might have room. At least three security people were there on the dock to wave us to a slip and help us with our lines.
Six or so boats arrived that day and the sleepy marina felt like it was starting to wake up. We took a slip with water (non-potable) and power. They have even cheaper slips available without power.
That morning (Friday) at 7:30 am, the fresh produce truck shows up to sell us a great assortment of fruits and veggies for $4.50 US. This was a first sign of the hospitality to come.
Marina Mazatlan
Whisper in Mazatlan Marina with her sun-shade (and/or rain catcher) up for the first time. Our living space expanded to the protected cockpit, and below deck, temperatures lowered.
Our initial warm welcome on the dock was the first indication that this marina wanted us here. The staff is very professional, courteous, and efficient. The services here cater to cruisers and they want us to stay here.
The Marina Mazatlan itself is rebounding after last year's bankruptcy proceedings and seems to be doing well. Although the facilities are austere compared to El Cid, they have almost everything cruisers need (except potable water on the dock).
Sylvia is the on-site marina administrator and ship's agent. She will complete all Mazatlan check-in/out paperwork for $35US.
Marina Mazatlan has hosted numerous parties, Friday happy hours, a Thanksgiving dinner and party (including fireworks!), as well as arranging numerous cruiser services.
Cruiser Services at Marina Mazatlan
To our mutual delight, the " laundry guy" shows up (any weekday in the morning) to pick up our laundry and return it by 6 pm that day. Total cost including tip? Less than any U.S. Laundromat where you would do it yourself over a few hours. It comes back clean, bright, fresh smelling, folded neatly, and wrapped in clear plastic.
The beer truck shows up a few times a week, as well as the bottled water truck, the fresh produce-egg-and bread truck, the fresh camarón (shrimp/prawn) truck, and the propane truck. Local cruisers even arranged a one-time pick up of chains and anchors that need galvanizing for a run to the nearby bulk galvanizer.
The beer truck shows up with an excellent selection of Mexican beers in bottles or cans.
The camarón/prawn/shrimp truck has three different sizes of prawns for $10 US (large prawns), $14 US (gigantic prawns), or $18 US (small lobster?) per kilo (2.2 lbs). This is the bargain of the year for dockside delivery.
The beer from the truck is a bit pricy (near U.S. prices). We discovered we can get beer for about 1/2 the price at the nearby "MEGA" supermarket. Purified drinking water is $1.40 US for 5 gallons.
We have not had to go to the grocery since we arrived (although we may be getting tired of the delicious prawns).
These services make this the "easy life" for both transient yachts and the many retired cruisers that live here year round.
The "Palapa" at the Isla Marina.
A short walk to the nearby Gilligan's island and Isla Marina revealed a great palapa ("thatched roof shelter")
The Palapa offers a restaurant, Bar, "yacht club", email access, meeting place, and music venue -- they do it all. Dinner options? Tasty shrimp dish or filet mignon for $10 US. $1 beer. Great breakfasts. We also had one night of great entertainment there!
On the 27th, the band La Flaka played four hours of music at the palapa.We had a blast! Fifties through current day rock cover songs, some of their own songs, and a few musical and opera numbers to boot. Go out of your way to catch them if you are in Mazatlan.
Mazatlan
Pedro and Lola's restaurant in Old Town Mazatlan.
Mazatlan is a genuine Mexican coastal town with its fishing, shrimp, and industrial port.Because of its location with many miles of great beaches to the north, it has developed as a resort town and a cruise ship destination. Our first visit to Mazatlan was in 1991 via a Princess cruise ship -- for 6 hours! We looked forward to exploring Mazatlan at a more leisurely pace.
Old town in Mazatlan dates from about the 1820's and includes a great theatre/opera house, village square, cafés, and restaurants. There are lots of cultural activities, shopping and a huge Mercado (market) near the town center. A picture of the huge cathedral on Plaza Principal is back on the All Logs page.
A sleepy back street near old town.
We made a few trips downtown and enjoyed dinner twice at Pedro and Lola's restaurant on the square in old town. The first time it was just the two of us sitting at an outdoor table watching hundreds of local folks "cruising the square". The second time was with a table of 10 cruisers so we did not soak in the local ambiance, but both were great experiences.
We toured the local Mercado with our friends Richard and Marianne (MR Destiny). Fresh fish, meats, and fruit & veggies are available -- as well as lots of touristy stuff for the cruise ship passengers.
This was a great experience and reminded us that we miss much of the "behind the scenes" work required to get fresh food to U.S. grocery store shelves. They butchered entire cows right in front of us as we dodged the spatter of blood and various unidentified innards.
It's a small world...
Duncan and Gladys on the rooftop patio of her now home.
When Duncan was doing his management thing at Intuit, he had a great executive admin supporting him in 1999 and 2000.
Her name is Gladys, she, and her husband retired in 2000 to build a gorgeous new beach house in Mazatlan. After a year and a half of construction and move preparation, she and her husband moved into the house in the late summer of 2002.
Unfortunately, after only two months in their dream home, her husband became very ill and passed away.
Gladys and Robin (at the table on the left) dig their toes into the sand while dinner is served on the beach. A basket vendor heads home for the night.
After only a few minutes catching up with Gladys, it was clear that she was doing very well. Duncan quickly remembered that Gladys is a fighter and she would not stay down for long.
We had a brief visit on Whisper, went to see her house, and then grabbed a tasty dinner in a great beachfront restaurant. Gladys has a beautiful oceanfront home. She has come a long way since Duncan first saw the pictures of an empty oceanfront lot in 1999.
Gladys has also been a great source of local knowledge and has offered to take us on a day trip to the local towns of Concordia and Copala if we have time before we leave.
Copper Canyon
In the middle of our Mazatlan visit, we decided to take a side trip up to Copper Canyon in the Sierra Madre.This trip took a just under a week (11/21-11/26). We met several intrepid travelers (from all over the world) and took a bunch of good pictures (128 pictures filled all 128MB available on the digital camera). We have therefore created a separate log entry for Copper Canyon.
Click here to learn more about our Copper Canyon side trip.
The Social Aspects of Cruising
One of the concerns we had before leaving is whether we were heading out into a small community (social environment) where it might be difficult to meet new people, or that relationships once started, would end quickly as boats sailed in different directions. We wondered if it was possible to develop lasting friendships in such a small, transient community.
Now that we are here, we find that with SSB and HAM radio, as well as email, it has been easy to keep in touch and to coordinate future rendezvous'. Each day, new boats, acquaintances, and old friends arrive here in Mazatlan. Everyone is very helpful and eager to share his or her knowledge and experience.
In the area of Marina Mazatlan, there is a steady stream of available social events, classes (HAM radio and Morse code, Spanish, card games), and seminars for cruisers (health, sailboat racing). There is a lot to do if you want to hang out with or learn more from other cruisers.
We also see there is an opportunity to meet and get to know some of the locals -- but so far, they are mostly associated with the boating/cruising/tourism industry. Some cruisers are active in Habitat for Humanity, local orphanages, and local schools. Both cruisers and retired expatriates are helping in San Blas after hurricane Kenna.
Susan and Greg on Tavana. Tavana has already moved on to Puerto Vallarta.
Ron and Bette on Francis V.
Richard and Marianne on MR Destiny. Satisfied after Thanksgiving dinner.
Marianne, Betsy, and Robin at Thanksgiving Dinner.
Thanksgiving in Mazatlan
Thanksgiving in the cruising community of Mazatlan is a big deal. The Marina Mazatlan put on a big dinner and party, and on a smaller scale, the palapa also put on a Thanksgiving feast.
The nice Mexican (and Panamanian) folks that hosted the dinner on for Marina Mazatlan (for about 100 people), set up rain/shade tents, rented chairs and tables (with tablecloths, silverware, and real plates!). They purchased table flowers, brought in a host bar, catering kitchen, and a band -- and had music, dancing, and fireworks after dark. This was in addition to the Thanksgiving Mass, Blessing of the Marina (and each boat individually), and a whole afternoon of fun activities. It did rain and get cool, but this did not dampen any spirits -- it was great fun!
Other fun stuff & observations...
Our movie theatre adventure to watch Harry Potter (book 2) in dubbed Spanish (without any English subtitles) met with great amusement by the locals as well us us. The audience (mostly kids) screamed, talked, clapped, and hooted through the whole movie. Halfway through the movie, the lights came on and the projector halted. It took us a moment to realize this was an intermission, and that the audience "meowing" loudly just before was the request to stop the film for a bathroom/concession break.
We finally figured out how to use the payphones in Mexico. The payphones here are light-years ahead of Pacific Bell in pay phone technology. These new pay phones accept only "prepaid" smart cards or other credit/calling cards -- no coins. On the other extreme of the Utility comparative, the plumbing systems here cannot handle toilet paper -- go figure.
Where to next?
Duncan's sister Susan and her two kids Samara (17) and Kyle (15) will be coming down to Puerto Vallarta for Christmas. Our objective will be to arrive in Puerto Vallarta before they do and scout out fun activities to help them celebrate their Christmas break. We do not yet have reservations at any Puerto Vallarta (PV) marina, so we need to get a slip soon (or just anchor out).
We will leave Mazatlan sometime in the first two weeks of December and head to PV -- weather permitting. We are also contemplating a possible day or two stop at the bird sanctuary of Isla Isabella. It is a nesting ground for brown, blue footed (& other?) Boobies as well as Frigate Birds. There are researchers on the islands that lead hikes near the nesting areas.
Systems Update
Just before we left Cabo, our Fischer Panda genset freaked out again with symptoms similar to those we encountered in Morro Bay (May 2002). The 400A inter fuse again melted, and some of the internal wiring in the genset also got hot enough to start melting. We don't have any confirmed root cause – but we do have a theory. Our (now working) SSB radio generates strong RF interference/feedback when transmitting. While running the genset, this RF interference may be strong enough to confuse the genset voltage regulator into an over-voltage state. On the other hand, it may be another problem altogether...
We are working with Todd and our friends at Sound Rigging to remotely diagnose the problem and get us replacement parts and necessary spares. For now, we don't transmit on the radio and run the genset at the same time!